'Paris of the East'

Tues 13th October 09 Hostel, Harbin
Just enjoying my breakfast of porridge made in Ian's flask (this is another kitchen i wouldn't dare risk using) and catching up on some emails and facebook comments while Ian is now meeting with his contacts at British Sugar across town. Thankfully today we have water - the city is building a metro system which is why we think it was cut off yesterday. It's amazing what you get used to - loos included - after a few weeks. As long as we've still got the internet.
Harbin, a city of 3-4million, for me is viewed in two halves - the smelly, traffic-dominated half where I feel hot, stressed, tired and challenged (grumpy). I have been wearing my face mask to try and block some of the fumes. The other half is the river front where there is a view across the water and a long pedestrianised street with nice shops and trees, relaxed people (probably all visitors though we seem to be the only non-Asians around) and I have to admit - a rather 'European' flavour. I will be heading for this area today on the number 11 bus for a spot of shopping. I think this area is what qualifies Harbin for its reputation as 'the Paris of the East'. Strangely the architecture is mainly Russian, which is not surprising considering its location in the northeast of China only a few hours train-ride from Vladivostok, but I suppose 'St Petersburg of the East' is a bit of a mouthful. They even sell Russian dolls and furry hats here - I feel rather nostalgic. Harbin is a winter destination too - for skiing in the hills, ice-skating on the frozen Songhua River, and ice and snow sculpture exhibitions.
Hmmm, shopping - this could be the lasting impression we bring home with us from China. Everywhere you go are shops and malls. Yesterday we innocently tried to cross a road through a subway and emerged 40mins later with a new coat for me and a leather belt and smart trousers for Ian. How are we going to carry all this stuff we wonder? Perhaps a visit to the post office might be a good idea. The trouble is it's like a magnet. Our consumerist souls come alive at the prospect of good stuff got cheap. I want to buy for my family and friends and ship it back by the container-load.
Of course we from the UK are still in a privileged position when it comes to buying. Our newly made English speaking Harbin friend, 'Jack', tells us that the average wage is about 1,800RMB a month - about £165. Housing costs are high enough that Jack, at 28, lives with his parents and grandparents in a shared apartment. Food however is another story. You can get a good meal with several dishes for a couple of pounds. We bought lovely hot rolls on the street yesterday for 9p each. A bus ride anywhere in either Harbin or Beijing costs 10p.
The other good thing about Harbin is the sunshine. Although it's colder here than Beijing, we can feel the suns rays - in Beijing it was blocked out the whole week by the smog.